Fireside's Visit to India

[Fireside_Hindu]

My pictures finally came back! I took them with a combination of my phone and two disposables so don't go expecting super high quality here I will make posts in segments since the forums have a funny habit of logging me out if I'm idle for too long.

First I'll just give you a basic itinerary and then we'll go from there.

Delhi, Agra, Abhaneri Village, Jaipur, Khajuraho, and Varanasi

I want to open this thread with a picture from the middle of my visit.

Now, I have a personal policy that I don't take pictures inside any religious buildings. I don't know why - I just don't feel comfortable doing it anymore. But I made kind of an exception here, for the little black and white mother near the pillar. This is one of my favorite pictures (and places) from the trip. In the village of Abhaneri between Jaipur and Agra is an old Mata Mandir called Harshmata Mandir. (The Goddess of Joy) Her temple is crumbling in parts but it is still actively used. At this particular time the main sanctum was closed for the afternoon, but I made sure to spend time enjoying the quiet of the temple area and the occasional noise from the surrounding village. I also did Pradakshina around the shrine. I was alone until the last rotation when a few men (I think one was the priest) came to the shrine to pray. I could feel them staring at me, but I just made sure to smile and go about my business.

What you can't see in the picture is the little mother's puppy toddling around a small Shiva sanctum to one side. I greeted them both but I wish I'd had some kind of snack on me to give them.

 

[Fireside_Hindu]

So now, let's back up to the beginning.

We arrived in Delhi at 1:00 in the morning. Not by our choice, mind you, but delays happen. =) The first thing I remember about Delhi was the fog, and then after that, the amazing trucks! All the trucks are painted and decorated with mirrors and glass and metal. I never got tired of looking at them =) since we were part of a tour group a car was sent to pick us up and take us to our hotel. Once we got in the taxi I knew I wanted to take a chance at speaking Hindi. I've been learning for a while but I'm still very self conscious about it. But I summoned my courage and asked the driver, "Hotel jane mein kitni der lagti hai?" (How long does it take to reach the hotel?) He replied without hesitation! I was understood! Hazzah! The peasants rejoiced!

Once we reached out hotel I was surprised by the level of security. A guard checked under the hood of our taxi and then slid a mirror underneath to check the under carriage. I didn't bother me, just surprising. Once we were settled in our room (it's 3am by now) We go back down to the lobby and I get another chance to practice some Hindi. I walk up to the doorman and ask, "Kya aap hamari tasvir khinch sakte hain?" (Can you take out picture?) He happily obliged and then complimented me on my Hindi. I'm not bragging it's just worth mentioning because I needed those early positive responses so that I could keep being brave about it. At this point I would post that picture he took except it didn't develop correctly =(

But let's jump ahead so you can see a picture! Just 4 hours later we had to be up for breakfast and then our tour began in Olde Delhi.

I have to say I'm surprised these photos came out because we were perpetually jumping around in that ricksha like we were on a wooden roller coaster. I have to give our driver credit though, whenever he could he avoided the potholes. He would laugh along with us every time we were jostled up from our seats a couple inches.

This rickshaw ride went through the streets of the Chandni Chauk and I'm telling you right now, there's no way to describe it. I would have love to walk the hectic streets and visit every closet sized mandir we passed along the way. There was a temple every few feet! At least that's what it felt like! This place is a people watcher's dream. I'll say the one thing our tour could have used more of is time. I guess I'll just have to go back.

 

[Maya3]

Thank you so much for sharing!

Beautiful photos and impressive language skills!

Maya

 

[Vinayaka]

I'm sure you'll get to it, but another thing that always amazed me was the wiring overhead.

 

[George-ananda]

Keep it coming Fireside....I'm enjoying

 

[StarryNightshade]

More! Post more!

Seems like you had an amazing time. Makes me yearn for my trip even more.

 

[Fireside_Hindu]

I'm sure you'll get to it, but another thing that always amazed me was the wiring overhead.

Yes- pictures don't accurately show it. It's actually pretty incredible. I don't know how they go a single day without some kind of electrical fire. (maybe they don't?)



While in the are we visited the Jama Masjid -the largest Mosque in India. It's a stunning building and you should all go see it. I only have a photo of the outside, but it's really incredible.

After the visit to the mosque, we visited a beautiful Sikh Gurudwara. I feel terrible because I don't remember it's name, but the interior walls are lined with real gold leaf and the music was very entrancing. We were given a tour of the kitchen and the Langar Hall. This 22 hour a day volunteer operation is really a site to behold. Cooking pots as big as auto-rickshaws and women making thousands of rotis. You really have to admire how they get all the work done.

After touring the inside of the Gurudwara, we were told if we wanted to we could take prasad outside. Me and another woman were the only ones brave enough to take it. (It was a palm full of some dough-consistency sweet. I don't know the name of it although I feel like I've had it before in another form. It was brown and sticky -and delicious!)

Here's me near the reflection pool outside with my trusty, all purpose scarf/shawl/dupatta.

 

[Poeticus]

I'm not bragging it's just worth mentioning because I needed those early positive responses so that I could keep being brave about it.

But you have every right to brag. You worked tremendously hard for the past two (or three?) years with your Hindi. Heck, it's better than mine! And remember when @shahz said "wah! kya baat hai!"? He (and me) meant it. You have done an awesome job, FH. Awesome, awesome job. Much humbled. And thank you for the much awaited thread, homie. Beautiful pictures, for they make me feel as if I am there in India. Thank you a thousand fold!

 

[Fireside_Hindu]

But you have every right to brag. You worked tremendously hard for the past two (or three?) years with your Hindi. Heck, it's better than mine! And remember when @shahz said "wah! kya baat hai!"? He (and me) meant it. You have done an awesome job, FH. Awesome, awesome job. Much humbled.

Thanks! =)
It will be 2.5 years this June =) I'm hoping to have mastered enough that by the time I go back in a few years time I will become India's favorite white person.

 

[Poeticus]

Thanks! =)
It will be 2.5 years this June =) I'm hoping to have mastered enough that by the time I go back in a few years time I will become India's favorite white person.

Lmao! Shiiiiiiii, gurrrrrrrrrl. It ain't no thang!

 

[Fireside_Hindu]

Lmao! Shiiiiiiii, gurrrrrrrrrl. It ain't no thang!

Seriously though - if I can learn to use compound verbs I deserve some kind of medal.

"No Ashleyji, it's 'Thik ho jana' not 'Thik jana hona'.

 

[Madhuri]

Thank you for sharing! Post more pics, post more pics!

 

[Fireside_Hindu]

Thank you for sharing! Post more pics, post more pics!

I will add more tomorrow. =)

 

[ShivaFan]

What a celebration of life! Adventure is wonderful, isn't it? No better place for that than India. One of the very first things I saw the very first time in India was an evening wedding procession coming down the street with music and complete with ponies (horses) in gilt. I was wedded to India that moment. Me and my friend had to sleep on small fold out cots in a tiny abandoned Ethiopian Airlines office arranged by our hotel because our hotel said their regular rooms were full. But the eagle has landed.

So now YOUR Eagle has Landed, Houston. When it is a timeless story, it is not a story.

 

[Aupmanyav]

Harshmata Mandir. (The Goddess of Joy)

Abhaneri was founded by a Gurjar Pratihar king. You must have visited Chand Baori (Step Well). That is beautiful. Here is the Google link for the same abhaneri - Google Search

Harshmata is really Har+Siddhi Mata (Har=Shiva + Siddhi=Attain). So, the Goddess through whom it is possible to attain the grace of Lord Shiva. There is another Harshad/Harsiddhi Mata temple near Porbandar. They say Lord Krishna and Mother Rukmani were married here.

The outer facade of Harshmata temple at Abhaneri. Not over done, simple, but still beautiful

 

[Aupmanyav]

But let's jump ahead so you can see a picture! Just 4 hours later we had to be up for breakfast and then our tour began in Olde Delhi.

You went to Chandni Chawk after having a breakfast! What a pity! Otherwise you could have tasted the Indian delights - Bedmi, Jalebi, Kulfi, Milk with saffron, and even Nimish (in Delhi known as Daulat ki chaat, that is milk turned into a stable foamby whisking). I hope you did taste some of them.

I'm sure you'll get to it, but another thing that always amazed me was the wiring overhead.

That is a problem we have not been able to solve, though we may have sent a probe around Mars. Electric wires, telephone wires, TV cable connections, strings left tied after political and religious functions and processions. Are they not there is South India?

 

[Aupmanyav]

After the visit to the mosque, we visited a beautiful Sikh Gurudwara.
I don't know the name of it although I feel like I've had it before in another form.

That was Gurudwara Sheeshganj. It commemorates the martyrdom of 9th Sikh Guru Teg Bahadur. What you got was 'Karah Prasad', a cake-flour pudding, standard at Hindu and Sikh religious functions.

 

[Fireside_Hindu]

Alrighty - and now for something completely different...

PUPPIES.

I met these little guys at Humayun's Tomb in Delhi. I think we can all agree that despite the Mughal architecture, these puppies were the real highlight. On a serious note, while I was expecting the the roaming cows, I was not expecting to see so many stray dogs. I knew they advised against feeding them (because Rabies, I guess) but I have to say I was truly surprised by how gentle and easy going the street dogs are. Stray dogs in the US are generally wary of people or at worst, aggressive. I was approached (and later approached, against my better judgement) several dogs, both puppy and adult, and was greeted with, at worst, a cold shoulder (many of the dogs do not even beg for food) or at best a wag of the tale, some kisses on my hands and quiet acceptance when I pat them on the head. (I have been wanting a dog for many years so you can imagine how hard it was to walk away from this litter without taking them all home with me. Curse you, US customs regulations!)

Oh, right. Humayun's tomb:

I know we could all complain about the Mughal invasions but let's at least admit that these guys knew how to build. The level of sculptural detail is astounding. It's very different from Hindu architecture, but still stunning.

I just...love this tree. Everything about it. Can anyone tell me what kind it is? I thought maybe Banyan but I'm not sure. Ashoka maybe?

I'm going to go ahead and end on puppies too, for this post. This little guy was great. He walked right up to me and propped his paws on my knees. He was perplexed by the sounds coming from my disposable windy camera. I've named him Humayun Louie, btw.

 

[Aupmanyav]

I know we could all complain about the Mughal invasions but let's at least admit that these guys knew how to build. The level of sculptural detail is astounding. It's very different from Hindu architecture, but still stunning.

I just...love this tree. Everything about it. Can anyone tell me what kind it is? I thought maybe Banyan but I'm not sure. Ashoka maybe?

The Muslim buildings were made by local artisans. I do not know how much they were paid for their labors. But I do not deny the Muslim contribution to architecture, music, poetry and food. It enriched India.

Yes, it is a banyan tree. It was perhaps inside Humayun tomb boundary that is why no strings around it. Otherwise it would have been an object of worship for Hindu women. Lord Krishna said I am 'ashwattha' among the trees (BG Chapter 10). Ashoka is this one. It is more or less a good for nothing. No shade, no fruit, no flowers. It cannot compare with the majesty of a Cedar (Devadaru - Cedrus deodara), it cannot compare with the fragrance of a Maulsri, it cannot compare with the flowers of Rhodendron or the fruit of a Mango.

Hindu women going around a banyan tree praying for the welfare of their men-folk.

 

[Aupmanyav]

Making of Kada Prasad (Kada, Kadhai, a wok). The other name is 'halwa':

Cleaning a large (huge) wok (don't worry, they clean it thoroughly. It is religion for them):

The wok (deg) at the shrine of Sufi Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti at Ajmer. It was presented by Moghul emperor, Jehangir - Akbar's son, Shahjahan's father, Noorjehan's husband and the lover of the singing girl Anarkali whom Akbar had buried alive in a wall according to the popular love story as he did not want Jehangir to marry a dancing girl (a honor killing). That was the story of the famous Indian film 'Mughal-e-Azam'. They prepare resotto (khichdi) in it. At the moment filled with gifts.

People with caps (generally) are Muslims, Hindus are bare-headed.