The Series S has a GPU within the ballpark of a 5600 XT and a CPU a tad slower than a Ryzen 7 3700X. These specs can and should comfortably run a game like FIFA 22 at 1080p at a stable, smooth frame rate. That the game has issues on the console makes me suspect the problem is a lack of optimization and improper porting, not a shortcoming of the console itself.
From what I can see in the article, I think the main issue is having unrealistic expectations and comparing the Series S to the Series X, which has a significantly stronger GPU and a slightly faster CPU. For example, in the case of F1 2021, the article calls having no 120 Hz mode and not running at 4K "compromises" compared to the Series X version. Well, of course; those aren't realistic or fair expectations to have for a $300 machine running hardware that, on a roughly equivalent (spec-wise) PC, would be just perfect for 1080p/144 Hz gaming in most games.
The article also mentions poorly implemented ray tracing in Resident Evil: Village. I don't know about others, but I certainly wouldn't expect any kind of decent ray tracing from a $300 console when a GPU that can realistically do it with good visual quality on PC would by itself cost more than double the price of the entire console.
The Series S is great value for the money for what it is: a budget option to play current-gen games at 1080p (and sometimes 1440p) at 30 FPS in many cases (and 60 FPS if the game can achieve that with the available hardware). Sure, the Series X and PS5 are much more powerful, but they're also a lot more expensive and bigger in size. For $300, the Series S really is an amazing deal in today's GPU-starved market.