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Not a question. Just a reminder about cars:

9-10ths_Penguin

1/10 Subway Stalinist
Premium Member
It would be nice if some expert could advise people somewhere.

Let me give you a little feedback on your comments. IMO, if the engine is on full power and brought into neutral it might cause:
1.
Quoting: What happens to a car engine when giving max throttle while not in gear
The RPM's would certainly increase but the mechanical components would be prevented from exceeding maximum RPM's by a rev-limiter.

Rev-limiters are built into the ECU (computer) of the car. When an engine is spinning at it's maximum RPM set by the manufacturer the ECU will not send a spark to particular cylinders to prevent the engine from spinning faster and potentially damaging itself.

If a rev-limiter were not in place the engine would have a high likely-hood of experiencing valve to piston contact. Valve to piston contact occurs when the valve cannot close quickly enough to get out of the way of the piston on an upstroke. The result is catastrophic with a hole being punched in the top of the piston by the lingering valve. Results of this type of failure will vary. Imagine loose bits of aluminum and steel flying around inside of an engine at or beyond it's maximum RPM's and you get the idea.

This applies to modern cars with rev-limiters. Older vehicles will not have this self-protection device. I defer to an expert with more information regarding when rev-limiters began to be implemented by the manufacturers to edit this answer with some of that information and remove this paragraph. Thanks​
Thus, in some cases putting a car in neutral at full power could actually be dangerous.​

2.
If an engine is turned off while at high speed, while still not locking the steering column (as mentioned earlier), because the engine is in gear, and now slowing down, the parts that pump the steering fluid would still function, as far as I know, the brake will continue to have some power for a limited time, but even when the power assists is empty, one just needs to apply more foot power for the brakes to work.
https://www.quora.com/Will-brakes-work-in-a-car-if-suddenly-while-running-the-engine-stops
A typical car has hydraulic brakes, but the force a driver applies to the brake pedal is augmented by a vacuum brake booster. The vacuum brake booster relies on engine vacuum (from a throttled engine) to create a large amount of force because of the difference between atmospheric pressure and the vacuum. The brake booster generally is able to store enough vacuum to assist with one or two stops when the engine is not providing vacuum. You can test this for yourself with the engine off. The first time or two that you push down on the brake pedal the brakes will have the typical firmness, and then they will get harder as the vacuum is gone from the brake booster. As soon as you start your car the vacuum in the brake booster will be restored and your brakes will feel normal again.

You may also notice if your car is idling and you pump the brakes rapidly the engine might start running a little faster as the vacuum brake booster is providing additional air into the engine because the engine is trying to pull a vacuum for the brake booster and you're using that vacuum when you push down on the brakes.

If for some reason the vacuum brake booster fails, or your engine stops and you pump the brakes several times so you lose the vacuum assist, you WILL be able to stop your car, but you'll have to apply a lot more force to your brake pedal.
------------------------
https://www.quora.com/What-happens-when-an-engine-dies-while-driving
Everything that is power assisted by belt or gear drive from the engine will cease to work, hydraulic brakes, air brakes and steering, aircon, etc.(not forgetting vacuum assisted brakes from the intake manifold vacuum) If the engine is turned by the momentum of the vehicle driven by the wheels you will still have those devices until the vehicle pretty much stops, not long on a flat road. But in a manual transmission only.
Funny: your OP seemed to give advice to anyone in any situation with a stuck throttle. Weird that you'd now clarify that it's specific to the case where:

- the car has a manual transmission,
- the car doesn't have a rev limiter (which probably makes it either at least 20 years old or an obscure model), AND
- the throttle gets stuck wide open.
 

Grandliseur

Well-Known Member
The requirements for a Class A commercial driver license are good
to know because of the checklist to complete before driving.
I have a driver's license with date 'Unlimited' and never expiring, so even driving dead, skeleton and all, I would be legal. It is of course not a US license.
I also have licenses for both large truck and bus, but not commercial, only for private non-commercial use.
 

Revoltingest

Pragmatic Libertarian
Premium Member
I have a driver's license with date 'Unlimited' and never expiring, so even driving dead, skeleton and all, I would be legal. It is of course not a US license.
I also have licenses for both large truck and bus, but not commercial, only for private non-commercial use.
I studied for a Class A commercial license, but I didn't bother to get one cuz
I haul only for myself, & I turned my truck into an RV, which is exempt.
All other states have reciprocity with Michiganistan. Technically, I'm supposed
to stop at weigh stations, but I never do. Guys with similar rigs say that the
weigh station operators just wave them on by.
 

Grandliseur

Well-Known Member
Funny: your OP seemed to give advice to anyone in any situation with a stuck throttle. Weird that you'd now clarify that it's specific to the case where:

- the car has a manual transmission,
- the car doesn't have a rev limiter (which probably makes it either at least 20 years old or an obscure model), AND
- the throttle gets stuck wide open.
I cannot think of everything. I tried to give advice to all.
I have no idea which modern cars have or do not have rev limiters.
The guy who had the problem with this and his BMW must have had an automatic car, why did he not put it in neutral? This is why I try to keep in mind that my knowledge of all cars is limited. My car has a hybrid automatic which can easily be switched to neutral.

It is again a question as to how all cars function, and I have no idea how the expensive BMW, Rolls Royce, Mercedes cars are limited. So, my advice is backed up with experts down the road as comments demanded it.

I did ask you and others to add advice if you had any.
 

Grandliseur

Well-Known Member
I studied for a Class A commercial license, but I didn't bother to get one cuz
I haul only for myself, & I turned my truck into an RV, which is exempt.
All other states have reciprocity with Michiganistan. Technically, I'm supposed
to stop at weigh stations, but I never do. Guys with similar rigs say that the
weigh station operators just wave them on by.
Sounds like a serious big truck you have. What make and name or even a picture of your truck might be fun. You must have something small to drive in, right! Going to buy milk in a 5 ton truck is a bit of an overkill. :D

My present day vehicles are small: a small 125cc honda scooter that gets me about 42km/l and a small car that gets around 18-23km/l gasoline depending on city or country driving. The car's gear shift is a hybrid and can do automatic, or semi manual without clutch.
 

Revoltingest

Pragmatic Libertarian
Premium Member
Sounds like a serious big truck you have. What make and name or even a picture of your truck might be fun. You must have something small to drive in, right! Going to buy milk in a 5 ton truck is a bit of an overkill. :D

My present day vehicles are small: a small 125cc honda scooter that gets me about 42km/l and a small car that gets around 18-23km/l gasoline depending on city or country driving. The car's gear shift is a hybrid and can do automatic, or semi manual without clutch.
Mr Van is only a 12,400# truck (cube van with a 12'long box).
I tow a 14,000# or 15,000# trailer.
 

Revoltingest

Pragmatic Libertarian
Premium Member
That's still very large for going shopping. :D Probably 30 to 40 mpg?! - a little less than 10 km/l perhaps.
(Oops going off thread here) But, fun.
It depends on what one shops for.
This little fellow weighs a little over 10,000#.
So fuel economy drops to about 10mpg.
IMAGE_13910.jpg
 

Grandliseur

Well-Known Member
It depends on what one shops for.
This little fellow weighs a little over 10,000#.
So fuel economy drops to about 10mpg.
IMAGE_13910.jpg
What is that machine?! It kind of looks like a steam driven thing, but at the same time, the exhaust doesn't look like that. What is that?

10 mpg - you must have a deep wallet.
 

Revoltingest

Pragmatic Libertarian
Premium Member
What is that machine?! It kind of looks like a steam driven thing, but at the same time, the exhaust doesn't look like that. What is that?
It's an internal combustion engine
Fuel is gas (not gasoline).
Size is a little under 4000 cu in.
Rated 35 HP at 190 RPM
Built @ 1895-1900.
Other features: low tension water cooled ignitor, ported exhaust, automatic intake valve, pendulum governor, eccentric driven exhaust valve (which allows it to run backwards too), compressed air starting
10 mpg - you must have a deep wallet.
I drive less than 7000 miles per year.
No wasted trips.
 

Grandliseur

Well-Known Member
It's an internal combustion engine
Fuel is gas (not gasoline).
Size is a little under 4000 cu in.
Rated 35 HP at 190 RPM
Built @ 1895-1900.
Yes, it didn't look like steam to me. The machine looks like a belt power machine that my grandfather used to power his sawmill. Some of his machines ended up in museums after he died. He was born about 1885 and died about 1965 - thereabouts. Of course, this one must have been used by a large firm.
 

Revoltingest

Pragmatic Libertarian
Premium Member
Yes, it didn't look like steam to me. The machine looks like a belt power machine that my grandfather used to power his sawmill. Some of his machines ended up in museums after he died. He was born about 1885 and died about 1965 - thereabouts. Of course, this one must have been used by a large firm.
I don't know where the original installation was, but in the teens it powered a line shaft in a
factory in Chicago. This engine is quite unusual in that I have spare parts, extensive installation
correspondence, manuals & catalogs for it. Unfortunately it was restored in the 70s. It had
good original paint before that. Someone put thousands of dollars into lowering the value.
 

Grandliseur

Well-Known Member
Someone put thousands of dollars into lowering the value.
Just Murphy at work. Your lucky day. :)

You must have quite a place to have this kind of machine - a museum of sorts?! Do you have people visiting as paying customers or they just free-loaders like me?! :D
 

Revoltingest

Pragmatic Libertarian
Premium Member
Just Murphy at work. Your lucky day. :)

You must have quite a place to have this kind of machine - a museum of sorts?! Do you have people visiting as paying customers or they just free-loaders like me?! :D
This engine is at home in a museum in PA (on loan).
But I do have a couple large buildings filled with junk....er.....treasures.
 

Grandliseur

Well-Known Member
filled with....er.....treasures.
I seem to have a lot of that kind of treasures too. :D

I used to have a nice Mazda truck with twin wheels in the back, (six passenger cabin with rather large truck bed) if that is what it is called. Loved it. But, economy downsized, now I get by with a small but nice car. I also had a mini bus once (26 passenger type) used for business, got old and downsized. That was perhaps the best vehicle I have ever had, loved it. Good mileage, about 24 mpg. It had a separate 1200cc engine to power the air-conditioner. I have never seen such a setup before.
 
Last edited:

Revoltingest

Pragmatic Libertarian
Premium Member
That's highly unusual. How do you control its forward or backward rotation when starting?
To start:
1) Oil where necessary. Ensure gas & starting air valves are open. Hook up battery & coil to the igniter.
2) Open a petcock on the cylinder so pressure can't build up ("compression release").
3) A couple guys grab each flywheel to rotate the piston to just after top dead center on the expansion stroke.
4) Close the petcock.
5) Open the starting air valve.
6) Close the valve as piston nears bottom dead center.

To run backwards, change step 3 to just before top dead center.
Because the intake valve is automatic (sucked open by cylinder vacuum)
& the igniter trips every revolution, & valve operation is symmetric (because
of eccentric rather than cam operation), it'll run that way.
I've never done it though....it would look wrong.
 

Grandliseur

Well-Known Member
To start:
1) Oil where necessary. Ensure gas & starting air valves are open. Hook up battery & coil to the igniter.
2) Open a petcock on the cylinder so pressure can't build up ("compression release").
3) A couple guys grab each flywheel to rotate the piston to just after top dead center on the expansion stroke.
4) Close the petcock.
5) Open the starting air valve.
6) Close the valve as piston nears bottom dead center.

To run backwards, change step 3 to just before top dead center.
Because the intake valve is automatic (sucked open by cylinder vacuum)
& the igniter trips every revolution, & valve operation is symmetric (because
of eccentric rather than cam operation), it'll run that way.
I've never done it though....it would look wrong.
I see. One of those automatic installments of old. :D It works automatically as long as you do the work for it. :)
 

Revoltingest

Pragmatic Libertarian
Premium Member
I see. One of those automatic installments of old. :D It works automatically as long as you do the work for it. :)
Once in motion, it does everything on its own.
Just gotta watch oil levels, governor operation, & spectators.
(This museum lets you get up close & personal to things which could kill you.)
 

Grandliseur

Well-Known Member
Once in motion, it does everything on its own.
Just gotta watch oil levels, governor operation, & spectators.
(This museum lets you get up close & personal to things which could kill you.)
Thank you for the spoiler. Such old machines last a long time if they aren't scrapped. I had some education as toolmaker. So, I have a bit of iron in my blood besides the normal stuff. Funny name you gave it though. But, I guess you are right, it is a passion for many.
 
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